03 | Jul | 15

Richard Johnson

New Indian Takeaway?

When I think of Indian street food I think of Angus Denoon (above left) selling Jhal Muri – the Kolkata street food – out of a supermarket trolley. He was guest of honour at the press launch of my book Street Food Revolution. “I think I am the only Jhal Muri Wallah over here” he once said. “Which is a shame. I would love to see it everywhere, because it’s one of the tastiest and most nutritious snacks around. Perfect to share with your neighbours, on the bus, or slowly, slowly, with your lover in the park. It is what Indians call a ‘chat’ – a snack. And it’s a class of Indian food that the British get shortchanged on.” But times are changing. There are now other Jhal Muri Wallahs on the streets of Britain — three at least. And a new generation of street food traders in India, according to this BBC film, is offering up hot dog trucks and barbecue wings. Progress? Who knows. But the Bangalore hipsters certainly seem happy…