The magnificent Dorshi, and their inspired new look. Trailer, and yet, somehow, not trailer. Their turnip cake is more Chinese than Japanese — and their dumplings have a very British quality. But, this month in Trinity Kitchen, they’re pitched up against a more prescriptive Harajuku Kitchen, who play things strictly by the book. Should be interesting. In Tokyo, sushi is an art. But an art with very strict rules. Even the arc described by a piece of fish on top of the sushi rice has a prescribed shape. It should make the same gentle curve as the pages of an opened book when placed on the table. In Dorset, sushi is a bit more relaxed. Thank goodness. Otherwise Dorshi – or Dorset Sushi – wouldn’t exist. Even the spicy horseradish dip and soy sauce (minus the soy!). It’s an education, and makes the whole idea of eating local fun. It would never happen in Tokyo. Which is a shame – even sushi needs to evolve.
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