13 | Dec | 12

Richard Johnson

Mission Accomplished

British Street Food were out in force this week at the opening of Meat Mission — an exciting new venture in a deconsecrated Hoxton church. Deconsecrated, I think, but still a place for the contemplation of higher things. Mainly, chilli dogs, wings and craft beer. The place comes from Scott Collins and Yianni Papoutsis, founders of Meat Liquor and Meat Market. I remember Yianni back in Meat Wagon days, when he parked up outside Scott’s pub in Herne Hill. Still, to this day, he cooks up the best burger I’ve had. But now he’s all across the entire Easy/Fast genre. Before the Meat Wagon, my benchmark was a Richard Corrigan

burger made of rump steak (known for its flavour more than tenderness), bone marrow, sauteed white onion and marjoram. And I seem to remember he served it on a brioche. No wonder it won him a Michelin star. Corrigan was very particular about mincing the steak himself – he used a knife, and a mezzaluna to mince it finer. He didn’t add an egg or breadcrumbs. It was perfection. With Yianni’s burger, I found something that bettered perfection — I found an epiphany. But I wouldn’t mind going back to double check. By the way, if you’re still waiting, Richard Corrigan isn’t sending out Christmas cards this year. He’s decided to spend the money on making his own cartoon. This offering is much more him….